Great walls of fire...

A ten kilometre slog up and down a hot and dusty mountain ridge is not usually something I would encourage but a ten kilometre walk up and down a hot and dusty mountain ridge on top of a wall in 40 degree heat would never be countenanced.    So it was with some surprise and let me tell you, a high degree of alarm, that I found myself doing just that.  I had planned a peaceful excursion to the country-side, just a short car trip from Beijing culminating in a leisurely stroll along one of man's most famous and infamous constructions. Instead, with an injudicious "Yes" to the guide when asked whether I would like to experience one of the more dramatic and spectacular reaches of the Great Wall,  (after all, what harm could come of it), I was whisked away to endure three uncomfortable hours in a car devoid of suspension and two hours of gut-busting suffering between two lesser known Chinese villages before I was able to catch my breath!  I did however, arrive at the end, largely unharmed and more than a little pleased with myself. Was it worth it? Mmmmm...yes it was.  How ever many pictures you may have seen of it, nothing quite prepares you for the awe inspiring sight the Great Wall and surrounding country is...especially as it was largely devoid of tourists except for myself, a delightful Finnish woman who kept my spirits from flagging in the heat of the walk, a couple of disgustingly healthy and fit Spanish youngsters and a guide. 

With the sun setting slowly behind the watchtowers,  I was deep in contemplation of what I had just achieved when the guide, bless his soul, capped the moment perfectly by handing to each of us, an ice cold Tsingtao, a popular, well-hopped pilsner...perfect!

Forbidden cities...hidden gems!

Surrounded by blood red walls, imposing gates and memories of a sacred past, the Forbidden City is at the heart of Beijing...well geographically and terrestrially at least.  Forbidden no more, it is indeed a sight to behold, and let me tell you, thousands of visitors ceremoniously behold it each and every day.  I was fortunate enough to arrive in the early morning and was able to seek out tantalising nooks and crannies otherwise hidden by the throngs of eager tourists.  All aspersions aside, this palace complex abounds with majestic beauty and insights into the past, but for me, what is truly tantalising are the rooms and courtyards that remain locked...well forbidden really.  Nothing electrifies the imagination more than thoughts of goings on behind locked gates and barred doorways labelled with "Entry Forbidden" signs.  After pausing to contemplate that thought and a meditative stroll around the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, with a moment outside the Hall of Mental Cultivation for good measure, I found myself once again outside the  massive walls, looking for somewhere to put my feet up and quench my thirst.  As luck would have it, I stumbled across a real gem, a welcoming and comfortably padded salon of some refinement, tucked away behind some red doors in a small lane way.  The perfect place to relax and slowly sip a refreshing Hoeng Kee Ng Sing;  a delightfully elegant cocktail named after the Chinese flag with five stars because of its red colour. It is made using red wine, Fen Chiew (a fragrant sorghum based liquor) honey, orange juice and ice. A bit of a forbidden pleasure in itself so early in the day!

Hello me old China...

Desperate for a nice cup of tea and a foot massage and not one to stay in one place for too long (or oolong for that matter), I have packed my kit and headed to the far east...Beijing or bust!!! Dazzling colour and excitement aside, Beijing abounds with temptations of the past and more than just casual promises of the future.  People here live their lives in public and a slow meander through Beijing's many green spaces or historic Hutong (alleyways), where unusual openings entice one to explore what's hidden behind walls, is a great way to experience life as it unfolds away from the main roads. While one can't escape the ever present sight of television antenna or satellite dishes, even in the oldest lanes, the Hutong are everyone's back yards.  One shouldn't be surprised see people strumming a guitar and singing with a hundred of their closest friends, watching television,  or even dressed to the nines dancing the Evening Three Step in one of the treed squares dotted through the neighbourhoods.  I am going to enjoy this great city...just as I am enjoying a deliciously refreshing Pale Ale #6 from the Greal Leap Brewery in Doujiao Hutong.  The balanced hoppiness and good alcohol content make it a beer to savour and soak up the atmosphere that is Beijing.