The refined man of Borneo...not quite!

While not quite the Congo, I did not wish to miss an opportunity to vaguely tip toe into the world of Joseph Conrad's "...Heart of Darkness". So with a keen sense of adventure and a lorry-load of maximum strength insect repellent,  I ventured bravely but surely into the dark heart of the Sarawak jungle between Kuching and the Kalimantan border.  I had high hopes of not only finding myself but also wildly hoped to acquaint  myself with the wild orang-utans and other creatures of the Borneo forest.   My hopes were however, not to be realised.  After walking many steamy and muddy kilometres in water sodden boots, and slapping myself senseless in mad, thrashing attempts to rid myself of ever present and persistently blood sucking beasties, (I was informed cheerfully after one hour of hard slog, that the insect repellent I had chosen was good for little more than as ballast for my backpack), I came to realise that the elusive orang-utan would remain elusive.  I was however, endlessly entertained and amused by a raucous troop of monkeys who followed our little trek through the wilds.  They did of course, keep a respectable and safe distance from the clumsy intruders, but their constant 'chatter' was a reassuring accompaniment as we trudged through to our destination.  


Wildlife aside, the jungles of Borneo have much to offer the inquisitive traveller.  Many of the tribes living on the myriad rivers upstream from Kuching, live in remarkable structures known as longhouses.  These are gigantic wooden structures on stilts, each built in a different style according to the tribe, where entire villages co-exist under one roof, with individual rooms leading off long communal verandahs. With the right introductions and the right guide to help you navigate through longhouse etiquette, it is possible to experience the wonderful hospitality of these warm people and stay the night. I am fortunate to have been invited to spend the night by a  welcoming and friendly Iban family  Most longhouses these days have been quite modernised with electric lighting, TV and even satellite...but the hospitality shown to me was that of the old-fashioned kind; unparalleled anywhere for its genuine warmth.  


As the green light of the jungled faded with the encroaching evening, my guide and hosts joined me on the wide verandah, placing down on the cane table between us, an amber bottle of uncertain origin filled with a cloudy liquid and a shot glass for each adult.  This I was later to discover, was  tuak, the local tipple.  It has a mild and not totally unpleasant taste but by early indications, is going to pack one impressive hangover!  What fun!

The urbane charm of Kuching

 I had few expectations when winging my way to the city of Kuching, the capital of Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo.  I had viewed it merely as just another small, provincial Asian city; a launching place for an 'intrepid' foray into the densely jungled interior of this infamous and mysterious island.  My views however,  soon proved to be erroneous and were sharply but delightfully jolted into the realisation that Kuching was anything but a run-of-the-mill, moderately sized Asian city.  Instead, I found a polished, refined and tolerant city with an urbane charm that would impress even the most jaded of travellers. Having recovered from the immediate dismay of being...wrong, I quickly rallied, deposited my bags in my 'atmospheric' lodgings and went to explore. Built largely on the south bank of the Sungai Sarawak, Kuching (meaning 'cat' in Malay) though large by Malaysian standards, is somewhat contained and compact, with most sites and attractions within an easy and tempting stroll of the city centre.  I was to find that many of Kuching's historic buildings have been tastefully and artistically  restored, including the many humble godowns or warehouses, that line the river and now house restaurants, curio shops and Chinese shop houses.  The south bank of the river is even rimmed by a peaceful promenade, where one can amble between the sites or hail a small boat or tambang to ferry you across the river. 


As dusk settles over this most attractive city of Southeast Asia, I have repaired to one of the more colourful godowns for this evening's dissipation. Nestled comfortably in rattan and silk upholstery, I have settled on an old standard, a Singapore Sling, that 'climate appropriate' mix of gin (premium naturally), cherry brandy, lemon juice and soda.  Not precisely a local concoction but certainly well in the region, I felt my selection had met with the approval of those around me.  A longer stay in this tempting city is definitely in order!

Jewels in the KL sky!

One can not live solely...and soulfully on fresh air and friends alone so it is with some trepidation and yet, with more than a modicum of excitement that I find myself "...on the road again...".  Replenished and refreshed after a wonderful time at 'home', I find myself once again thrust into the hurly burly of South East Asia...of Kuala Lumpur, or KL as it is known to those accustomed to traversing the globe.  Despite being now recognised as a thoroughly modern, prosperous and affluent city, one only has to stroll through the historic colonial district, or Chinatown with its quaint old shophouses or even the bustling market place of Little India to appreciate the past, colour and character that make up KL today.  As much as I love the old, the historic and the 'quirky dustiness' of any city (possibly in reference to my good self), it is the new, modern and sparkling that attracts me to KL these days. And nothing holds my awe more than the majestic Petronis Towers.  Rising like KL's glittering, arabesque crown and refracting like jewels in the sky, the towers are an arresting and compelling site.  

Not one to miss the thrill of being 'arrested' and 'compelled', I have retired to the Sky Bar of KL's Traders Hotel. A striking rooftop bar with amply and sumptuously cushioned nooks surrounding the hotel's swimming pool, one is comfortably presented with uninterrupted views of the towers and the city's preparations for the evening's activities.  What better way to enjoy a warm KL evening than with a view to rival the treasures of Aladdin and...a refreshingly appropriate Campari Cocktail.  While defined by a careful blend of Campari and a dash of Angostura Bitters, one must insist on the use of a premium vodka to complete this concoction...anything less will leave one with a bad taste in the mouth.  Chin chin! 

Friends...and other animals in Lorne!

Travelling as frequently as I do, it is easy to take for granted and indeed, fail to recognise, the simple pleasures of the company of good friends and the joys of a coastal week away.  I was thankfully reintroduced to some of the things that make me happy while travelling down the "Great Ocean Road" to the seaside hinterland of Lorne.  A mere 150 kilometers from the hustle and bustle of Melbourne, the journey to Lorne takes in some of the most spectacular coastal scenery anywhere in the world.  Nestled on the border of the Great Otway National Park, Lorne, though tediously lively in the festive season, can also offer  one the peace and quiet one needs to recover from the rigours of the pointy tree festival.  With that in mind, I resolved to take the time to smell the eucalypts, align myself with the horizon and appreciate that "...a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush".   In the company of close friends and other animals, I sink more heavily into my wicker chair on the verandah conveniently overlooking the Victorian coast, sigh deeply at the wonder of it all and...pop the cork on a Dal Zotto Pucino Prosecco NV from the King Valley region of Northern Victoria. Pale in colour, this youthful Prosecco has hints of cut pear and citrus blossom and a freshness that is perfectly enjoyed on a verandah by the sea side.  What  good fortune I have!