Time, Temples and the Trinity

It is clear to all that have recently been in my company that my body is yet to become a temple, however, after a week or three of navel gazing, and yes, yoga in Bali, I am well on the way and have come to appreciate the nobility and beauty of commitment, not least the commitment the villagers of Payogan have to spiritualism and the village temple.
  
The temples of the village are central to life to the Balinese and each village has three, each dedicated to one of the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu.  The Balinese believe that all are manifestations of one and the same supreme spirit Sanghyang Widhi.  Balinese Hinduism is strongly influenced by animism and naturalism, where the power of spirits lies in all objects and elements of life.  All basic principles in Balinese Hinduism revolve around obtaining balance and harmony between the different elements in life and afterlife, the dasar asasi. The charm of it all is that the key to balance in life is obtained through a harmonious relationship between the spirits, other human beings, and the nature that surrounds us.

Wanting to further pursue the concept of harmony, I, dressed appropriately in sarong and village sash, attended an important village celebration at the temple receiving a warm and friendly welcome. I was even encouraged to take photos of the preparations and stay to enjoy the festive atmosphere throughout the day.  What fun and high jinx! Absolutely charming!

But like most day time activities, all has gently melted into early evening and, with balance and harmony in mind, I have retired to a comfortable settee around the pool at my villa to contemplate the delights I had witnessed and to enjoy a small bottle of Bintang (beer)...a suitable and refreshing conclusion to what can only be described as a perfect day.

Perfectly placed in Payogan...Bali!

As much as I have been recently crowing about the joys and pleasures of spending a winter in Melbourne,  there must be some respite...a chance to laze in the sun and get the feet warm at least once! So as you can imagine, I jumped at the opportunity to go once again to the tropics, this time to the island of Bali in Indonesia. Unlike my fellow countrymen however, I have chosen to bypass the busy coastal regions and beach culture and head directly to the green, gentle and tranquil slopes of the village of Payogan, near Ubud to warm the bones, unwind and...to contemplate my navel. Well known as being the cultural centre of Bali, this region abounds with beautiful temples, ancient sites and traditional healing practitioners and is the perfect place to immerse oneself in peace, harmony and...indulgence.  Yes, I am afraid its a restorative massage each day together with interesting and tranquil meanders through the surrounding jungle and rice fields for me. A hard job but someone has to do it! 
Ancient monuments and verdant rice fields aside, this region also boasts a host of warungs (local eating places) and excellent establishments to while away an evening or three. I have managed to tear myself away from the rigours of relaxation and have uncovered the perfect location for my evening libation...  a wonderfully located warung above the rice fields that makes a serious lychee martini! A departure from the more traditional martini but a departure certainly worth making. Mmmm! Navel gazing at its finest.

*PS: In a departure from my normal posts, I would also like to share with you, the establishment in which I enjoy repose while in Payogan.  I am ensconced in the Villa Saraswati, a small and perfectly appointed B&B where the locally sourced staff provide a level of personalised friendly attention and service that is difficult to find these days.  I think I shall be here for quite a while!!

It fits beautifully...in Fitzroy!

I rarely seem to make it to the "other side" of the river on a sunny winter's day while in Melbourne, (the north/south traffic is just too appallingly frustrating to bother), but today finds me in the inner northern suburb of Fitzroy catching up with some old and some new friends, not only enjoying the sunshine, but appreciating the different aesthetic and relishing the charming streetscapes.  As comfortably accustomed as I am to the charms of the inner bayside locales, I really must make the effort more often to venture north as it really has a rustic Victorian beauty that differs from the interests to be found south of the Yarra.  Recognised widely as Melbourne's first suburb, Fitzroy is also one of Melbourne's most heterogeneous locations, making it near impossible to define simply. It is a little 'granola' and a little 'continental', historic while embracing the new.  It is just...different, with a narrative all of its own.  

Being a popular destination for Italian immigrants in the 1950's, the Fitroy and Carlton areas of Melbourne also makes it one of the best places in Melbourne to find a refreshing and satisfying Limoncello, that wonderfully scintillating Italian lemon liqueur that is like imbibing a shot of sunshine. For my mind, the best Limoncello is homemade, but if that proves too difficult to find, it worth searching for a variety from the islands of Procida, Ischia or Capri.  Today it will be an excellent homemade concoction, lovingly blended by a close friend. Prosit!

There's no place like home...in winter!

Just a quick click of my heels and a rather tedious and soul destroying flight later, I am far from the tropical heat of Malaysia and back in the cloud of a cold, damp Melbourne winter...and I must say, I am thoroughly enjoying it.  Despite the fact that I have joined my fellow Melburnians in loudly decrying the wet conditions and sniffling at the cold mornings and exclaiming that life in the city is barely tolerable at this time of year, I am quietly enraptured by it all. It is expected, even mandatory to complain about Melbourne weather if one lives here, but I firmly believe that, like me, its "well-weathered" residents enjoy using the excuse of winter, to hucker down in one of the many warm and convivial bars that line its lanes and inhabit its beachside locations. 

As cosseting and enveloping as a wet, winter's day can be for me,  I am equally charmed to enjoy one of those days when Melbourne's winter sky sparkles and is crystal clear and the warm light favours all who venture outside.  Today is one such day and I have taken the opportunity to luncheon in the sun at an old haunt of mine in the beach-side suburb of St Kilda.  In keeping with the clarity of the winter sun and the remarkable quality of light, I have chosen the wonderfully floral, herbal and lightly spiced Bay of Fires Pinot Noir 2009 from Tasmania. A bright, vividly ripened drop, it would be difficult to find a more suitable accompaniment to a beautiful winter's days in Melbourne.