The refined man of Borneo...not quite!

While not quite the Congo, I did not wish to miss an opportunity to vaguely tip toe into the world of Joseph Conrad's "...Heart of Darkness". So with a keen sense of adventure and a lorry-load of maximum strength insect repellent,  I ventured bravely but surely into the dark heart of the Sarawak jungle between Kuching and the Kalimantan border.  I had high hopes of not only finding myself but also wildly hoped to acquaint  myself with the wild orang-utans and other creatures of the Borneo forest.   My hopes were however, not to be realised.  After walking many steamy and muddy kilometres in water sodden boots, and slapping myself senseless in mad, thrashing attempts to rid myself of ever present and persistently blood sucking beasties, (I was informed cheerfully after one hour of hard slog, that the insect repellent I had chosen was good for little more than as ballast for my backpack), I came to realise that the elusive orang-utan would remain elusive.  I was however, endlessly entertained and amused by a raucous troop of monkeys who followed our little trek through the wilds.  They did of course, keep a respectable and safe distance from the clumsy intruders, but their constant 'chatter' was a reassuring accompaniment as we trudged through to our destination.  


Wildlife aside, the jungles of Borneo have much to offer the inquisitive traveller.  Many of the tribes living on the myriad rivers upstream from Kuching, live in remarkable structures known as longhouses.  These are gigantic wooden structures on stilts, each built in a different style according to the tribe, where entire villages co-exist under one roof, with individual rooms leading off long communal verandahs. With the right introductions and the right guide to help you navigate through longhouse etiquette, it is possible to experience the wonderful hospitality of these warm people and stay the night. I am fortunate to have been invited to spend the night by a  welcoming and friendly Iban family  Most longhouses these days have been quite modernised with electric lighting, TV and even satellite...but the hospitality shown to me was that of the old-fashioned kind; unparalleled anywhere for its genuine warmth.  


As the green light of the jungled faded with the encroaching evening, my guide and hosts joined me on the wide verandah, placing down on the cane table between us, an amber bottle of uncertain origin filled with a cloudy liquid and a shot glass for each adult.  This I was later to discover, was  tuak, the local tipple.  It has a mild and not totally unpleasant taste but by early indications, is going to pack one impressive hangover!  What fun!

The urbane charm of Kuching

 I had few expectations when winging my way to the city of Kuching, the capital of Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo.  I had viewed it merely as just another small, provincial Asian city; a launching place for an 'intrepid' foray into the densely jungled interior of this infamous and mysterious island.  My views however,  soon proved to be erroneous and were sharply but delightfully jolted into the realisation that Kuching was anything but a run-of-the-mill, moderately sized Asian city.  Instead, I found a polished, refined and tolerant city with an urbane charm that would impress even the most jaded of travellers. Having recovered from the immediate dismay of being...wrong, I quickly rallied, deposited my bags in my 'atmospheric' lodgings and went to explore. Built largely on the south bank of the Sungai Sarawak, Kuching (meaning 'cat' in Malay) though large by Malaysian standards, is somewhat contained and compact, with most sites and attractions within an easy and tempting stroll of the city centre.  I was to find that many of Kuching's historic buildings have been tastefully and artistically  restored, including the many humble godowns or warehouses, that line the river and now house restaurants, curio shops and Chinese shop houses.  The south bank of the river is even rimmed by a peaceful promenade, where one can amble between the sites or hail a small boat or tambang to ferry you across the river. 


As dusk settles over this most attractive city of Southeast Asia, I have repaired to one of the more colourful godowns for this evening's dissipation. Nestled comfortably in rattan and silk upholstery, I have settled on an old standard, a Singapore Sling, that 'climate appropriate' mix of gin (premium naturally), cherry brandy, lemon juice and soda.  Not precisely a local concoction but certainly well in the region, I felt my selection had met with the approval of those around me.  A longer stay in this tempting city is definitely in order!