I am sure you have all heard the Bali naysayers…"It's too crowded and too touristy!" or "It is over-run by noisy, drunk teenagers!" or "You just can't find a quiet spot any more!" I too have made those claims and in certain parts of Bali, those comments are unfortunately, all too true. But locations of absolute beauty, peace and tranquility…where the villagers and townsfolk are welcoming, warm and genuine, can still be discovered. Some of you may remember a previous visit where I was Perfectly placed in Payogan, a small village in the Ubud region, a place where the true nature of Bali is permitted to shine. Well, I have found another…the village of Penuktukan in the northern region of Tejakula!
Wonderfully positioned on the north coast of Bali, Penuktukan is most certainly, one of the quietest and most beautiful parts of the island. If you enjoy shopping, hoards of tourists, heaving shopping strips, loud bars and a myriad restaurants and cafes, Penuktukan is not the place for you. Conversely, if it is cool crystal clear waters, snorkelling or diving, local food markets, lush vegetation, engaging village walks and rolling hills that you seek, you will find it here in abundance.
The countryside is undoubtedly noteworthy and restful but it is what is under the gently lapping waters that is truly stunning! A mere 15 meters gentle paddle from shore puts you in a world of coral forests and swarms of rainbow coloured and curious fish. Sea life is in abundance here and it is certainly within easy reach for both the novice and experienced alike.
Private villas and dive centres are sparsely dotted along this part of the coast but it was at The Villas Tejakula right on the waters edge, that I found rest for my bones. Displaying a fine appreciation for detail and an architectural simplicity and style that sits well with their surrounds, The Villas Tejakula are beautifully appointed and positioned...the perfect place to escape the hurley burley that seems to define the Bali of the south coast, and of course, the perfect location for this evenings tipple.
As the sun sinks behind the Penuktukan pandanas, I have settled into a wonderfully refreshing Arak concoction made with the very best El Massaya arak, lime juice, local wild bee honey and iced water. Does it get much better?
Despite much wailing and renting of cloth, I have torn myself away from the paradise that is the lush surrounds of Ubud, Bali. Gone from my reality are the green, rolling hills and the verdant valleys that have hypnotised me for the past month or so...but I shouldn't grumble. As I trawl through the myriad photos I have taken, already missing the warm evenings and tropical scents of Payogan, I know that Ubud is never far away...a mere 6 hours flight (albeit tedious and horrific) from Melbourne.
Back home and the promise of summer is with us. The days are getting longer and the weather is slowly but surely developing a reassuring warmth. This evening is particularly warm for this time of year and my photo trawl has inspired me to sink back into holiday mode. To complete the mood, I have selected a 2009 Curly Flat Chardonnay from the Macedon Ranges here in Victoria; a zesty drop with a stylish, new oak edge. Mmmmm! An delightful evening tipple, a warm evening and warm memories of the tropics. What folly!
It is clear to all that have recently been in my company that my body is yet to become a temple, however, after a week or three of navel gazing, and yes, yoga in Bali, I am well on the way and have come to appreciate the nobility and beauty of commitment, not least the commitment the villagers of Payogan have to spiritualism and the village temple.
The temples of the village are central to life to the Balinese and each village has three, each dedicated to one of the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. The Balinese believe that all are manifestations of one and the same supreme spirit Sanghyang Widhi. Balinese Hinduism is strongly influenced by animism and naturalism, where the power of spirits lies in all objects and elements of life. All basic principles in Balinese Hinduism revolve around obtaining balance and harmony between the different elements in life and afterlife, the dasar asasi. The charm of it all is that the key to balance in life is obtained through a harmonious relationship between the spirits, other human beings, and the nature that surrounds us.
Wanting to further pursue the concept of harmony, I, dressed appropriately in sarong and village sash, attended an important village celebration at the temple receiving a warm and friendly welcome. I was even encouraged to take photos of the preparations and stay to enjoy the festive atmosphere throughout the day. What fun and high jinx! Absolutely charming!
But like most day time activities, all has gently melted into early evening and, with balance and harmony in mind, I have retired to a comfortable settee around the pool at my villa to contemplate the delights I had witnessed and to enjoy a small bottle of Bintang (beer)...a suitable and refreshing conclusion to what can only be described as a perfect day.
As much as I have been recently crowing about the joys and pleasures of spending a winter in Melbourne, there must be some respite...a chance to laze in the sun and get the feet warm at least once! So as you can imagine, I jumped at the opportunity to go once again to the tropics, this time to the island of Bali in Indonesia. Unlike my fellow countrymen however, I have chosen to bypass the busy coastal regions and beach culture and head directly to the green, gentle and tranquil slopes of the village of Payogan, near Ubud to warm the bones, unwind and...to contemplate my navel. Well known as being the cultural centre of Bali, this region abounds with beautiful temples, ancient sites and traditional healing practitioners and is the perfect place to immerse oneself in peace, harmony and...indulgence. Yes, I am afraid its a restorative massage each day together with interesting and tranquil meanders through the surrounding jungle and rice fields for me. A hard job but someone has to do it!
Ancient monuments and verdant rice fields aside, this region also boasts a host of warungs (local eating places) and excellent establishments to while away an evening or three. I have managed to tear myself away from the rigours of relaxation and have uncovered the perfect location for my evening libation... a wonderfully located warung above the rice fields that makes a serious lychee martini! A departure from the more traditional martini but a departure certainly worth making. Mmmm! Navel gazing at its finest.
*PS: In a departure from my normal posts, I would also like to share with you, the establishment in which I enjoy repose while in Payogan. I am ensconced in the Villa Saraswati, a small and perfectly appointed B&B where the locally sourced staff provide a level of personalised friendly attention and service that is difficult to find these days. I think I shall be here for quite a while!!
