Deck the halls with the bowels of...Melbourne!

Home...just in time for pointy tree day.  It seems many journeys since I last graced the streets of Melbourne but what a comfort it is to see familiar sights and familiar faces, albeit for what will probably turn out to be a short visit.  Of course, the Christmas period is the talk of the town at this time of the year and Melbourne, similar to the rest of the "Christian" world, celebrates Christmas like...a famine is about to wreak untold havoc on its fearful inhabitants after a blizzard of unexperienced proportions forces the interment of all inhabitants, preventing them from accessing supplies for the duration.  In other words, we buy up all we can refrigerate and all we can possibly cook...usually enough to last until all participants start to resemble a well fed Strasbourg goose and indeed, start to feel more than a little liverish!  And in case you confuse us with a people who buy provisions to accommodate the climate (often stifling hot at this time of the year), we roast and bake and stuff all that we can we can just in case of that blizzard and famine to follow. 
Over indulgence aside, it is nice to be home and it is nice to reacquaint myself with the lanes and arcades of Melbourne.  Unlike any other city in Australia, Melbourne has embraced lane-way life and has done it very well.  To celebrate my homecoming and the festive season, I have found a pleasant spot to enjoy a wonderfully refreshing Bay of Fires - Tigress Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay from the The Pipers River region of Tasmania. Distinctly Tasmanian, Tigress is a cool climate sparkling of lingering complexity that I will be enjoying right across the pointy tree period. Bon Noel all. 

Meditation and mayhem in Bangkok!

On my way home at last!  But not without a stop over in that most vibrant, bustling, colourful and yet...most sublime of south east Asian cities...Bangkok.  I never pass the opportunity to centre myself in the land of the free...Thailand.  It is truly remarkable.  All present thoughts however, must go out to the wonderfully resilient people of this noble country, for they are more than knee deep in trouble at the moment.  For a culture that has been built on, in and around water, (and the Thai's will be the first to tell you how important it is) there is just too much of the blessed stuff.  Despite great hardship though, I am most comfortably welcomed by those around me.  
You know despite what others say, I always manage to find peace here.  Unfortunately, the reputation of Bangkok suffers greatly from those who decry the noise, the heat, the pollution and the crowds, but they do not look any further than their air conditioned tour buses as they hurtle headlong to the beaches or the mountain resorts far north.  Bangkok has a sublime beauty that is not found elsewhere. A carefully tendered shrine just around the corner, the heavenly scent of beautifully crafted jasmine garlands always in the air and the patient smile of a street vendor always within sight...Bangkok is there to be savoured. Just as I am going to savour a refreshing Singha beer in a charming little bar in a tree lined Soi just off Silom Road.  Sublime indeed!

Dreams and Dada in Zurich

Zurich oozes money...breathes money...and, costs money, lots of it! Even the most basic of activities seem to cost a small fortune, except of course, for that most basic of activities: a long, relaxing meander through narrow, fairy tale like lanes and down towards the river; just don't stop for a coffee!  Refreshments aside, a relaxing stroll is exactly what is called for in Zurich for it truly is beautiful and...surprising. With stunning, dream like architecture,  and mysteriously dark shops full of all sorts of interesting things, one can't help but be filled with expectation for what might be just around the next corner.  For a country that has a reputation for being staid and responsible, there is a refreshing air of the bizarre that is so very appealing.  It should really come as no surprise however,  for Zurich is the home of Cabaret Voltaire and Dada, that movement of the absurd that attracted an amusing collection of non-artists who created non art...all in a very arty fashion.  Like Dada, Zurich has whimsy and hasn't lost that spirit and desire to mock the establishment.  Thank goodness.  Too much respectability would be too much to bear in city that has has so much beauty. Well within view of the swans sailing majestically on the painfully beautiful lake, I have settled into an armchair of ample comfort to ponder the absurd and to enjoy a refreshing Turbinenbrau Sprint, from the Turbinenbrau brewery in Zurich.  Sprint is fresh and refreshing  enough to have another.  I had best get my credit card ready!

Sumptuously insane by the Seine

It is no secret to anyone that Paris is positively bursting with culture. In fact, culture is it's lifeline..it's blood so to speak.  But Paris also abounds with activities and sights that are far less highbrow and to some, including me, are far more interesting. One should always find the time to explore the less refined, to search out the surprising and bizarre and to experience the local elements of any city.  Often it means just keeping your eyes open or turning left when everyone else is turning right...but one is never disappointed.  A long leisurely stroll along the Seine reveals impossibly small studios boasting petit, beautifully tapestried deer to mind boggling  and stylish art supply shops, every nook and cranny of Paris has something to surprise, something to evoke the imagination.  So it was with some thought of the unusual that I sought out an establishment for the evening's tipple that would promise something different, something a little out of the ordinary. Very few establishments outside of the French Basque country stock Izarra, but that is exactly what was was required to complete a most satisfactory day of exploration.  Izarra is fashioned in Bayonne and like Chartreuse, is available in both yellow and green varieties.  I have chose the Izarra Horia or yellow Izarra this evening for its delicious almond taste.  A mouthful of sunshine and most certainly worth the search and shoe leather.  

Paris...welcome to the Culture Club!

Bon chic...bon genre!  You just have to love this City of Light and I certainly do.  Just when you think you can't possibly squeeze one more gallery, museum or concept store in, another one virtually opens before your eyes.  What high jinx and larks are to be had in discovering something new...for that is what Paris does best.  It constantly reinvents itself just as it has year after year after year, and it never disappoints.  I chose to stay in the 11th on this visit and I was more than rewarded for the journey a little further out of the hurly-burly than was once considered chic.  It now abounds with great acoustic music venues and wonderful eateries doing the most amazing things with rabbits and ducks...terrines may just become my new passion! But what is most comforting is the friendliness of those who inhabit the 11th.  Make no mistake, it is very local and more than a little grungy, but the city's bourgeois bohemians...or bobos...have brought  a hip coolness to the area. As such, I have certainly had no difficulty in finding a location for this evening's libations and have suitably chosen one of my favourite indulgences to start the evening. Chartreuse! I have always felt an affinity with this wonderful nectar and I have managed to find one of the few establishments that serve what can only be described as a tonic for good health... Elixir végétal de la grande-Chartreuse...over ice of course.  Far too serious to be imbibed unadulterated and really, not recommended.  In this form, it is more like a cordial than a mere liqueur.  Just remember, drink it with your head held high! 

A Bordeaux in Bordeaux...how refined!

The luxury of proximity is one of the delights of life I really enjoy and appreciate in Europe.  A mere train journey or two from intoxicating San Sebastian and I find myself in the thick of it all in Bordeaux...Spain one day, France the next.  I know, I know...I have a pretty pleasant time.
It has been many years since I was last in this neck of the woods and even then, it was in the thick of a long and cold winter that I found myself in Bordeaux.   The mood and clime was then, one of head down and wintery survival...but now...absolutely amazing.  Apparently, local authorities have invested much time and effort into reinventing Bordeaux as a must visit city, and I must tell you that it has really paid off.  Mind you, there was an excellent canvas with which to work.  Bordeaux is indeed based on grand architecture and intriguing alleyways, all with a fairytale like quality while still maintaining some of the oomph of the past! Of course it has the wines but it also has an excellent repertoire of regional produce to go with them and a number of excellent restaurants that make very good use of it. Mmmm! I could indeed settle in here for a while and lose myself in a reverie of lunches and dinners to be enjoyed. Instead, I have selected a 'more than just fine' bottle of Chateau Carbonnieux  - Cru Classe de Graves '95 to get lost in.  The question is...will one be enough?

Basking with the Basques...

Bilbao

 San Sebastian

Well readers, as you are more than likely aware, I have been somewhat "off the air" for a few weeks. What with a few technical difficulties and a desire to just put my feet up for a while, I have been more than remiss with keeping you up to date with my movements.  I have in fact, been sunning myself and indeed spoiling myself terribly in the Basque country. Let there be no mistake, the Basques are unique...from the language to libations...and from entertainment to cultural pursuits there is a distinct tradition to this 'part' of Spain that is unlike any other.  I was charmed by the shady beauty and strong personality of Bilbao and the sheer beauty and delight of the Guggenheim, but I am totally overwhelmed by the...all...of San Sebastian. And it has it all in abundance: sweeping city beaches, sultry and svelte night life and the most remarkable food to be found anywhere.  The chefs of San Sebastian have taken the once humble pintxo (the Basque version of tapas) to an extreme art form and all are displayed within easy reach...one's taste buds will never be the same.


It is said that the old quarter or Parte Vieja has more bars per square metre than anywhere else.  There is certainly no shortage of choice for a location for my evening tipple...one overlooking Bahia de la Concha I think best serves my purpose.  What better way to start the evening than with a perfect view of the beach in an evening glow and a deliciously dusty 1995 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 in hand. Life is indeed grand.

Valencia...much more than freshly squeezed orange juice.

Life has indeed thrown me an interesting diversion...well, a ticket to sunny Spain actually.   It is not without unreserved glee that I have emerged in stunningly majestic Valencia. Long suffering in reputation as the poor cousin of bully boy Madrid and 'tres chic' Barcelona, Valencia is more than worth a fleeting visit.  Beautiful tree lined avenues and plazas, an aesthetically atmospheric and historic city centre and two most passable city beaches accessible in the time it takes to apply a tanning lotion. What more could one ask for?  Valencia has quickly become one of my 'must visit again and stay longer' cities.  Of course, one can not survive on sites, sun and sand alone, there are the all important evening victuals to consider. On each street corner and in every leafy plaza is a restaurant, bar or small cafe that is more than happy to welcome you with the delights of their kitchens. Tapas and a relaxing tipple is the perfect siesta breaker in the early evening and is almost obligatory amongst the local population. Not wanting to break with tradition, I have smoothed away the remenants of my light afternoon nap and have settled into a comfortable chair on a shady corner for some tasty tapas and a delightfully fruity, locally spiced Sangria.  Mmmmm! A long evening ahead I feel.

The weird, the wonderful...and the astonishing!

By just walking around the various districts of Tokyo, you realise that, despite a life time of experiences, and despite what one thinks, one has not seen it all.  Every facade holds a secret and around every corner one is surprised.  From shops that horribly and tragically "farm" puppies, to establishments that cater specifically for those with a nurse fetish, (and no dear reader, I am not one of them), Tokyo opens your mind (and its doors) to all those who ask.  Despite the occasional jaw dropping ugliness and ethical, moral and personal upheaval, there is also more than a passing temporal beauty and zen serenity.  The cities parks and gardens are wonderful and surprisingly bountiful and easy to find and even easier to enjoy.  But what Tokyo serves up better than almost anywhere, is the astonishing array of completely wacky but ultimately gob smackingly wonderful architecture!  My personal favourite is the completely outrageous Super Dry Hall by Philippe Starck: a balanced pile of black glass with a "golden turd" on top.  Excuse the crude comparison, but that is the image that so quickly and readily enters my mind.  Revolting image aside, it is all so absolutely quirky but so absolutely right! 
Too much of this sort of thing however,  and one could...well...be driven to drink! One could even walk to drink and that is what I have done.  Well within sight of the 'Starck' reality of Tokyo, I have settled in to a Beni Otoma Shochu, a delightful clear distilled spirit, this one infused with roasted sesame seeds.  Akin to a good Vodka, Shochu is the perfect tipple to contemplate the bizarre. 

This is Tokyo, and it is positively...topping!

Tokyo is everything you imagine it is...actually, it is everything you ever imagined! Before I arrived, I thought it would be interesting, but I never imagined it would really have everything.  Oh! I do go on.  Tempering my hand, I imagined the concrete canyons, I imagined the shopping, I imagined the lights, I imagined the food and I expected the orderly nature of things, but I never imagined that I would feel simpatico with it all.  I usually have an appreciation for the chaotic, but in Tokyo, I have an appreciation for the chaotic order of what it is. None of it makes sense but it all fells right. I am sorry reader, but that it just what it is! It all just feels right!  It is visually loud but aurally quiet...it is atheistically wrong but so stylistically spot on...it is...just is!  This will no doubt upset the purists, but Tokyo is Ikebana, that art form in which nature and humanity are brought together.  In attempting to bring nature and humanity together in my own very special way, I have settled on a subtle yet delightfully potent homemade Umeshu for my evening tipple; that wonderful Japanese sweet, sour plum liqueur made from steeping ume fruits in the best available sake, well, any alcohol really.  I have been truly blessed by being invited to a sublime private, and might I say, incredibly salubrious Shimokitazawa sanctuary to imbibe in the very best.  Life is indeed at its best!

Totally taken with Takayama!

Takayama has charm, it has history, it has sumptuous Hida beef and it...produces excellent sake and ji-biru.     Heaven in one, no two glasses, and all wrapped up in one compact, friendly town.  No need to walk far for the nightly tipple, but it is indeed, a delightful place to walk around if the mood takes. From the ancient merchant houses of San-machi Suji to the surrounding hills, each vista is like the post cards of old...complete with rickshaws and local citizens authentically dressed in traditional garb...because it is part of their lives.
Tradition also seeps into Takayama's very interesting and note worthy restaurants.  Hida beef aside (a close rival to the more famous wagyu beef), the numerous dining establishments in the narrow lanes also serve the area's speciality, sansai ryori, concoctions that comprise of local mountain vegetables, ferns and wild plants.  Absolutely delicious but one would be totally incapable of producing such dishes anywhere outside of the immediate vicinity of Takayama. Mind you, would one want to? After all, it is best washed down with one of the three locally produced beers from the Kori Kori no Kuni Brewery...a brand with which I was not familiar before I arrived in Takayama.  But let me tell you, I am definitely familiar with it's charms now.

Samurai, ninja and...swimming pools in Kanazawa!

I am in Kanazawa and it is stunning.  I know you have heard it all before but dear reader, Kanazawa really is!  It has an imposing castle, it boasts a ninja temple, it is graced by one of Japan's most renowned and beautiful gardens, and to top it all off, there are samurai houses and a marvellous clutch of elegant geisha teahouses. Enough?  Not by a long shot.  As remarkable as the traditional arts are in Kanazawa, what is overwhelmingly amazing is that which is new.  Modern Japan is well represented here and it has been fully embraced by the local population.  Public art abounds and the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, like a giant algebraic puzzle in itself, houses an amazing collection of permanent pieces.   I know of nowhere else where you can walk into a swimming pool and look up at those from beneath the water...and remain dry!  (Leandro Elrich's aptly named, Swimming Pool)  Although Kanazawa is a sprawling city, it is paradoxically compact, thank goodness, and is easily accessed by foot.  Taking my cue from this remarkable city, I have found a compact but perfect location to sprawl for my evening tipple...the uber special Mizuho "Junmai Daiginjo" sake.  This tipple is locally produced at the Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery and has come highly recommended...it certainly lives up to its reputation.

Geisha, Gardens and...Astro Boy!

Kyoto is best enjoyed at a leisurely pace and with your eyes wide open.  For it is only then that you can truly see the beauty that resides behind closed doors. Away from the traffic and bustle of central Kyoto, and make no mistake, this is a big, working city, lies gardens beyond imagine and quite often beyond entry unless pre-arranged.  I was however, remarkably fortunate to experience a couple of Kyoto's most private and as it turned out, not so private, private gardens.  Some I had arranged and some I, well, literally gate crashed.  But before you cry foul, it all ended well.  After respectfully observing that I was not in a public reserve and with much blushing and bowing on my behalf, my reluctant hosts gave me a grand tour of the finer points of their creations with far more politeness than I surely deserved.  Unfortunately, twice today I have found myself in this embarrassing but, at it turned out, very fortunate position.  One was even being used as a backdrop for a documentary on Geisha!  The graciousness and kindness of the Japanese people can not be faulted, thank goodness, even in what must be for them, absolutely withering circumstances such as this.  Calling a day on any semblance of the leisurely pace at which I began my site seeing, I have made a hasty retreat to a small, cosy establishment not all that far from a homage to my favourite cartoon character, Astro Boy, to enjoy a well earned and refreshing Premium Yebisu All Malt Beer.  This beer has a full malt taste, quite different to the usual Japanese beer and well worth asking for.

The spirit of old Kyoto...

Konnichiwa. Eigo ga dekimasu ka? 
The Land of the Rising Sun...but before I deliberate, let me pay homage to the distinctly proud and resilient Japanese people who have suffered so much of recent times. I take my hat off to you.
Kyoto is polite, it is dignified, it is beautiful and...it lurks behind secretive screens.  My goodness what a place!! From the Philosophers Walk to the sublime temples of the eastern hills of Higashiyama, I am totally captivated by this city.  With traditional wooden houses, the click-clack of gita and the frequent flourish of brightly coloured silk, Kyoto is culture personified. But it is not out in the open. The first glimpse of Kyoto can be somewhat disappointing, but take a look around and it is all here, albeit relatively exclusive. Outsiders like me, can only peek through the cracks of the not so long gone centuries, but you can get a glimpse of the city's secretive soul if you look. Replete with fascinating temples and Zen gardens to the absolute, one really must exercise the muscles yet again and...walk.  It is worth taking the time to search behind the new department stores and shopping arcades and just take it all in. Take it all in, as I have,  with a side of complete extravagance at a delightful tea house in the Eastern Hills, particularly at one that serves the wonderfully balanced sake that is Urakasumi, from the Miyagi prefecture.  One can not say that it is the best, but it is certainly a sake that I can recommend.

Hong Kong...Mussel city!

One really can't venture to the Orient without a quick foray into Hongkers for a chance to replenish the old wardrobe.  I haven't been here for many years but my favourite tailor still flourishes the finest cloth to keen customers, still continues to measure chests, necks and ever increasing bellies and still turns out the finest shirts that money can buy.  Having taken to ordering from afar in recent times, I was still remembered, or at least, my requirements were.  My needs are mostly simple as you know... interesting things to look at, great memories, fabulous food and a tipple at dusk...but one really must have good shirts!  With a fresh supply of marvellous shirts in hand however, it would be negligent not to sample the delights of this amazing "ant hill" with a quick whip around.   Buildings on buildings on buildings on even more buildings and you have Hong Kong.  But there is more.  Though the glamour of times past has largely faded, there is still an urgency in the air and the smell of expectation on people's breath.  I suspect I reeked of a similar expectation, except I had spied some fresh, milky mussels at a small street vendor and had expectations of a delicious repast to follow.  I was not disappointed, in fact more than pleasantly surprised, when my ample dish of spicy steamed mussels were accompanied  by a sly nip of Confucius Vodka, a traditional sweet Vodka from the mainland, Shandong to be exact...not the smoothest of tipple but perfect for spicy mussels in the streets of one of the most densely populated cities on earth.