The tail of a dragon...

The future is here...and its in Shanghai.  As much as I have meandered from pillar to post, hung up my hat (albeit for a short time), unpacked my bags,  had my passport stamped and eaten the chocolates off the pillow at night,  I am pretty sure I have not experienced such variance from day to day as I have in Shanghai. Actually I am sure: if variety is the spice of life, then "life" is Shanghai.  If your hankering is to be a culture vulture, then come to Shanghai. If your desires are more culinary in nature, then come to Shanghai.  If it's inspiring and unusual design on your mind, then you can find it here.  From the banks of the Huangpu River to the temples to the Yuan and the mind expanding open air art forays, the bodily senses are in a constant state of flux.   All it needs is an open mind...and an open bank account.  But one doesn't really mind...when you can top it all off at the end of the day with a fabulous Les Pardes de Haut-Bailly, Pessac Leognan, 2004 at Shanghai's Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen.  Five years ago, all this was impossible but now.....well...maybe it's all just too much!

The Bund, the beautiful...and the Oriental Pearl

Lining the majestic Huangpu River, the life-blood of Shanghai, and the demarkation point between Puxi and Pudong, the Bund signifies everything that the Puxi side is...brash, bold and beautiful.  Known in Shanghai first as the English settlement and then later as the "International settlement" (how thoroughly cosmopolitan), the Bund became the major financial hub of East Asia at the end of 19th century and beginning of 20th century, reaching its glamourous best in the 30's and 40's.    Much of that Shanghai has disappeared but on the Bund today, you can still enjoy a taste of that elegance, albeit newly reinvented, and partake in world class food, drink and, I must say, company, in authentically  swish deco surrounds.  In fact, I was most fortunate to enjoy the wonderful hospitality of one such culinary establishment, M on Bund, and experience wonderful victuals and the wonderful views across the river to that amazing structure that is the Oriental Pearl.   How could I top an experience such as that... by settling in at a similarly swish cocktail bar of course, right in the middle of Shanghai's Dolce et Gabanna store, a mere hop, step and stagger away on the Bund.  I can't think of a more perfect place to enjoy a jaw-dropping Nicolas Feuillatte Cuvée Palmes d'Or 1996 champagne.  As I have said before...anything is possible in Shanghai.

Great walls of fire...

A ten kilometre slog up and down a hot and dusty mountain ridge is not usually something I would encourage but a ten kilometre walk up and down a hot and dusty mountain ridge on top of a wall in 40 degree heat would never be countenanced.    So it was with some surprise and let me tell you, a high degree of alarm, that I found myself doing just that.  I had planned a peaceful excursion to the country-side, just a short car trip from Beijing culminating in a leisurely stroll along one of man's most famous and infamous constructions. Instead, with an injudicious "Yes" to the guide when asked whether I would like to experience one of the more dramatic and spectacular reaches of the Great Wall,  (after all, what harm could come of it), I was whisked away to endure three uncomfortable hours in a car devoid of suspension and two hours of gut-busting suffering between two lesser known Chinese villages before I was able to catch my breath!  I did however, arrive at the end, largely unharmed and more than a little pleased with myself. Was it worth it? Mmmmm...yes it was.  How ever many pictures you may have seen of it, nothing quite prepares you for the awe inspiring sight the Great Wall and surrounding country is...especially as it was largely devoid of tourists except for myself, a delightful Finnish woman who kept my spirits from flagging in the heat of the walk, a couple of disgustingly healthy and fit Spanish youngsters and a guide. 

With the sun setting slowly behind the watchtowers,  I was deep in contemplation of what I had just achieved when the guide, bless his soul, capped the moment perfectly by handing to each of us, an ice cold Tsingtao, a popular, well-hopped pilsner...perfect!

Forbidden cities...hidden gems!

Surrounded by blood red walls, imposing gates and memories of a sacred past, the Forbidden City is at the heart of Beijing...well geographically and terrestrially at least.  Forbidden no more, it is indeed a sight to behold, and let me tell you, thousands of visitors ceremoniously behold it each and every day.  I was fortunate enough to arrive in the early morning and was able to seek out tantalising nooks and crannies otherwise hidden by the throngs of eager tourists.  All aspersions aside, this palace complex abounds with majestic beauty and insights into the past, but for me, what is truly tantalising are the rooms and courtyards that remain locked...well forbidden really.  Nothing electrifies the imagination more than thoughts of goings on behind locked gates and barred doorways labelled with "Entry Forbidden" signs.  After pausing to contemplate that thought and a meditative stroll around the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, with a moment outside the Hall of Mental Cultivation for good measure, I found myself once again outside the  massive walls, looking for somewhere to put my feet up and quench my thirst.  As luck would have it, I stumbled across a real gem, a welcoming and comfortably padded salon of some refinement, tucked away behind some red doors in a small lane way.  The perfect place to relax and slowly sip a refreshing Hoeng Kee Ng Sing;  a delightfully elegant cocktail named after the Chinese flag with five stars because of its red colour. It is made using red wine, Fen Chiew (a fragrant sorghum based liquor) honey, orange juice and ice. A bit of a forbidden pleasure in itself so early in the day!

Hello me old China...

Desperate for a nice cup of tea and a foot massage and not one to stay in one place for too long (or oolong for that matter), I have packed my kit and headed to the far east...Beijing or bust!!! Dazzling colour and excitement aside, Beijing abounds with temptations of the past and more than just casual promises of the future.  People here live their lives in public and a slow meander through Beijing's many green spaces or historic Hutong (alleyways), where unusual openings entice one to explore what's hidden behind walls, is a great way to experience life as it unfolds away from the main roads. While one can't escape the ever present sight of television antenna or satellite dishes, even in the oldest lanes, the Hutong are everyone's back yards.  One shouldn't be surprised see people strumming a guitar and singing with a hundred of their closest friends, watching television,  or even dressed to the nines dancing the Evening Three Step in one of the treed squares dotted through the neighbourhoods.  I am going to enjoy this great city...just as I am enjoying a deliciously refreshing Pale Ale #6 from the Greal Leap Brewery in Doujiao Hutong.  The balanced hoppiness and good alcohol content make it a beer to savour and soak up the atmosphere that is Beijing.