To market, to market...too much fun in the sun!!

Inspired, and somewhat shamed into action by the Christmas cheer and preparations made by Mary Kay, "Out and About in Paris", and Joseph the Butler, I have sallied forth to stock up for Christmas.  In an effort to 'shop local', thus supporting neighbourhood businesses, I have confined myself to the broad jurisdiction of Port Phillip Council, wherein my house resides.  So, it is to South Melbourne market I go with the view of securing all foodstuffs and condiments.

As with any other foray to South Melbourne market in the warmer months, the first stop is to the oyster bar,  a huge favourite with most market goers,  where one can indulge in those fresh, succulent and milky delights that are so good at this time of year.  I always purchase the beauties by the half a dozen, freshly shucked and dressed with a squeeze of lemon to gird my loins for the shopping ahead.  A perfect counterpoint to the heat outside.

Moving on to the delicatessen section of the market before the joy of the oysters wears off and the crowds start to get to me, I realise I can pretty much get everything I need and want to adorn a platter should hungry hoards arrive for a Christmas drink...or I get a bit peckish throughout the day. With Ligurian olives, prosciutto flecked with fine shavings of redolent truffle, taramasalata and tzatziki, a rich King Island double brie, a washed rind goats cheese, an Ashgrove Cloth Matured Cheddar, locally produced quince paste, spicy pickled quail eggs (I love them) and assorted greens, grapes and crunchy stuff in hand, I have just about all I need.

Satisfied that I had emergency food requirements covered, I felt I had time to take a quick break and...smell the roses so to speak, and notice the beautiful array of flora available to Melburnians at this time of year.

With a quick whip around the other market stalls, I was able to purchase quite a few interesting "stocking fillers" and even leave myself with enough time and the inclination for a nice sit down at one of the little establishments opposite the market.

To round off what has proved to be a very effective shopping expedition and in reverence to the heat of the afternoon, I have chosen a delightfully fresh Gapstead Limited Release NV Prosecco from the King Valley region of Victoria. Mmmmm!!  This tipple would be perfect with the oysters. Shucks!

Happy season of the pointy tree to all!

Favourite cafés and sticky treats...Part 1

I spend so much time gallivanting from place to place outside of Australia and my home patch, that I rarely get the opportunity to explore, really explore my own neighbourhood.   So with that objective in mind and with a curious and inquiring mind and aiming to look at my world through a different lens, I present to you a first glimpse of...da hood!

A short stroll from my front door brings you first to Little Captain, a charming and quaintly unpretentious establishment that has great coffee and an el fresco dining area that is both rustic and ample in what it has to offer...a delightful outdoor setting and oversight of the park and playground next door for those with sprats in tow.  The perfect combination...the children play in the park...the adults enjoy a moment's respite.

A mere hundred or so meters away from Little Captain and under the our very own image of the Lady of St Kilda, is the justifiably and hugely popular Las Chicas.  Always busy with locals and tourists alike but consistently good, Las Chicas is packed to the gills on most days and all day...so much so that I will only go there mid-morning and early in the week when the crowds are tame and a tad more neighbourly! However, for those unjaded by the weekend throngs, it is certainly worth a look in.

Cafés and neighbourhood sailing ships aside, one really can not and most certainly should not go past the sticky treats that my good friend SVP is able to produce, seemingly at the drop of a hat, when  one calls.  It never ceases to amaze me that people I know, have these sort of culinary treasures and pleasures on hand just on the off chance that someone may call. Not so surprising however, but definitely pleasing, is that people I know are able to produce a sticky tipple to accompany said sticky feasts and SVP is no exception.  A quick rummage in the cupboard and SVP has produced a more than acceptable Paul Jaboulet, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise 2009... full, velvety and intense. Marvellous!!

Harbouring serious envy in Sydney!

Those of you from foreign climes may not know that there is a long standing and 'bitter' rivalry between the Australian cities of Melbourne and Sydney...and for no apparent reason.  In my mind, each metropolis has more than its fair share of charming qualities and each really bares such little resemblance to each other that comparisons are spurious at best! Despite this, one often hears disparaging, and might I say, largely incorrect comments about Melbourne weather  from Sydney-siders.  Melburnians on the other hand, scoff at the "superficiality" of Sydney-siders (untrue) and bemoan the traffic chaos of 'Emerald City'...well, we are right about that. 

Residing in Melbourne myself, I feeI obliged to join in the chorus but I must admit, I have long harboured a serious case of city envy.  As much as I love living in Melbourne and will crow about its charms to anyone who will listen, I must admit that we just can't match the stunning beauty and excitement of Sydney Harbour.  Surrounded by palatial homes and large tracts of parkland, harbour-side life has much to recommend it.  But to really appreciate the best the harbour has to offer, and to fully take in the amazing sight of the hundreds of sailing boats and pleasure craft that ply its waters...you need to be on it.  I have had the luck and good fortune to have been invited to enjoy the harbour from the decks of a rather large and beautifully furbished catamaran. I am also fortunate and very pleased to note that my generous hosts have selected the most suitable Mcguigan Bin 9000 Semillon 2006 from the nearby Hunter Valley region of New South Wales with which to start the day.  The wafts of lemon and honey from the wine glass blend perfectly with the scents of the harbour.
  
While I will always prefer living and life in Melbourne over Sydney, I know my choice will always be tainted with that nagging touch of "city envy".

Warm evenings and shared memories...

Despite much wailing and renting of cloth, I have torn myself away from the paradise that is the lush surrounds of Ubud, Bali.  Gone from my reality are the green, rolling hills and the verdant valleys that have hypnotised me for the past month or so...but I shouldn't grumble. As I trawl through the myriad photos I have taken, already missing the warm evenings and tropical scents of Payogan, I know that Ubud is never far away...a mere 6 hours flight (albeit tedious and horrific) from Melbourne.
Back home and the promise of summer is with us.  The days are getting longer and the weather is slowly but surely developing a reassuring warmth. This evening is particularly warm for this time of year and my photo trawl has inspired me to sink back into holiday mode.  To complete the mood, I have selected a 2009 Curly Flat Chardonnay from the Macedon Ranges here in Victoria; a zesty drop with a stylish, new oak edge.  Mmmmm! An delightful evening tipple, a warm evening and warm memories of the tropics.  What folly!

Time, Temples and the Trinity

It is clear to all that have recently been in my company that my body is yet to become a temple, however, after a week or three of navel gazing, and yes, yoga in Bali, I am well on the way and have come to appreciate the nobility and beauty of commitment, not least the commitment the villagers of Payogan have to spiritualism and the village temple.
  
The temples of the village are central to life to the Balinese and each village has three, each dedicated to one of the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu.  The Balinese believe that all are manifestations of one and the same supreme spirit Sanghyang Widhi.  Balinese Hinduism is strongly influenced by animism and naturalism, where the power of spirits lies in all objects and elements of life.  All basic principles in Balinese Hinduism revolve around obtaining balance and harmony between the different elements in life and afterlife, the dasar asasi. The charm of it all is that the key to balance in life is obtained through a harmonious relationship between the spirits, other human beings, and the nature that surrounds us.

Wanting to further pursue the concept of harmony, I, dressed appropriately in sarong and village sash, attended an important village celebration at the temple receiving a warm and friendly welcome. I was even encouraged to take photos of the preparations and stay to enjoy the festive atmosphere throughout the day.  What fun and high jinx! Absolutely charming!

But like most day time activities, all has gently melted into early evening and, with balance and harmony in mind, I have retired to a comfortable settee around the pool at my villa to contemplate the delights I had witnessed and to enjoy a small bottle of Bintang (beer)...a suitable and refreshing conclusion to what can only be described as a perfect day.

Perfectly placed in Payogan...Bali!

As much as I have been recently crowing about the joys and pleasures of spending a winter in Melbourne,  there must be some respite...a chance to laze in the sun and get the feet warm at least once! So as you can imagine, I jumped at the opportunity to go once again to the tropics, this time to the island of Bali in Indonesia. Unlike my fellow countrymen however, I have chosen to bypass the busy coastal regions and beach culture and head directly to the green, gentle and tranquil slopes of the village of Payogan, near Ubud to warm the bones, unwind and...to contemplate my navel. Well known as being the cultural centre of Bali, this region abounds with beautiful temples, ancient sites and traditional healing practitioners and is the perfect place to immerse oneself in peace, harmony and...indulgence.  Yes, I am afraid its a restorative massage each day together with interesting and tranquil meanders through the surrounding jungle and rice fields for me. A hard job but someone has to do it! 
Ancient monuments and verdant rice fields aside, this region also boasts a host of warungs (local eating places) and excellent establishments to while away an evening or three. I have managed to tear myself away from the rigours of relaxation and have uncovered the perfect location for my evening libation...  a wonderfully located warung above the rice fields that makes a serious lychee martini! A departure from the more traditional martini but a departure certainly worth making. Mmmm! Navel gazing at its finest.

*PS: In a departure from my normal posts, I would also like to share with you, the establishment in which I enjoy repose while in Payogan.  I am ensconced in the Villa Saraswati, a small and perfectly appointed B&B where the locally sourced staff provide a level of personalised friendly attention and service that is difficult to find these days.  I think I shall be here for quite a while!!

It fits beautifully...in Fitzroy!

I rarely seem to make it to the "other side" of the river on a sunny winter's day while in Melbourne, (the north/south traffic is just too appallingly frustrating to bother), but today finds me in the inner northern suburb of Fitzroy catching up with some old and some new friends, not only enjoying the sunshine, but appreciating the different aesthetic and relishing the charming streetscapes.  As comfortably accustomed as I am to the charms of the inner bayside locales, I really must make the effort more often to venture north as it really has a rustic Victorian beauty that differs from the interests to be found south of the Yarra.  Recognised widely as Melbourne's first suburb, Fitzroy is also one of Melbourne's most heterogeneous locations, making it near impossible to define simply. It is a little 'granola' and a little 'continental', historic while embracing the new.  It is just...different, with a narrative all of its own.  

Being a popular destination for Italian immigrants in the 1950's, the Fitroy and Carlton areas of Melbourne also makes it one of the best places in Melbourne to find a refreshing and satisfying Limoncello, that wonderfully scintillating Italian lemon liqueur that is like imbibing a shot of sunshine. For my mind, the best Limoncello is homemade, but if that proves too difficult to find, it worth searching for a variety from the islands of Procida, Ischia or Capri.  Today it will be an excellent homemade concoction, lovingly blended by a close friend. Prosit!

There's no place like home...in winter!

Just a quick click of my heels and a rather tedious and soul destroying flight later, I am far from the tropical heat of Malaysia and back in the cloud of a cold, damp Melbourne winter...and I must say, I am thoroughly enjoying it.  Despite the fact that I have joined my fellow Melburnians in loudly decrying the wet conditions and sniffling at the cold mornings and exclaiming that life in the city is barely tolerable at this time of year, I am quietly enraptured by it all. It is expected, even mandatory to complain about Melbourne weather if one lives here, but I firmly believe that, like me, its "well-weathered" residents enjoy using the excuse of winter, to hucker down in one of the many warm and convivial bars that line its lanes and inhabit its beachside locations. 

As cosseting and enveloping as a wet, winter's day can be for me,  I am equally charmed to enjoy one of those days when Melbourne's winter sky sparkles and is crystal clear and the warm light favours all who venture outside.  Today is one such day and I have taken the opportunity to luncheon in the sun at an old haunt of mine in the beach-side suburb of St Kilda.  In keeping with the clarity of the winter sun and the remarkable quality of light, I have chosen the wonderfully floral, herbal and lightly spiced Bay of Fires Pinot Noir 2009 from Tasmania. A bright, vividly ripened drop, it would be difficult to find a more suitable accompaniment to a beautiful winter's days in Melbourne.

Lazing in Langkawi

More than a little foot sore and still tending to a myriad of insect bites collected in the jungles of Borneo, I have taken to a sun bed and a good book (Haruki Murakami's, The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle) on a tranquil, white sand beach on the island of Langkawi off Malaysia's north west coast.  With the trials, pleasures and at times, soreness of jungle life now well behind me, I have gratefully allowed the magic of island life to settle over me like a veil.  Each day has a tranquillity and timelessness about it, that evokes a calmness I believe can only be attained on a quiet beach in the tropics.   It is in this state of being that I divide days between the wonderfully complex world of Murakami, floating aimlessly in the impossibly aquamarine waters of the bay surrounding my chalet (I have commissioned simply furnished accommodation over the water) and a small but suitably appointed bar situated on the fringes of the beach.  As the sun and sea meet at dusk, and the evening light turns to a warm slate grey, I deliberate carefully on the list of libations and settle on a tipple that perfectly captures the moment... a Vodka (Reyka by preference) with crushed lime and mint served over shaved ice...marvellously refreshing with a long finish that takes you into the night.

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The refined man of Borneo...not quite!

While not quite the Congo, I did not wish to miss an opportunity to vaguely tip toe into the world of Joseph Conrad's "...Heart of Darkness". So with a keen sense of adventure and a lorry-load of maximum strength insect repellent,  I ventured bravely but surely into the dark heart of the Sarawak jungle between Kuching and the Kalimantan border.  I had high hopes of not only finding myself but also wildly hoped to acquaint  myself with the wild orang-utans and other creatures of the Borneo forest.   My hopes were however, not to be realised.  After walking many steamy and muddy kilometres in water sodden boots, and slapping myself senseless in mad, thrashing attempts to rid myself of ever present and persistently blood sucking beasties, (I was informed cheerfully after one hour of hard slog, that the insect repellent I had chosen was good for little more than as ballast for my backpack), I came to realise that the elusive orang-utan would remain elusive.  I was however, endlessly entertained and amused by a raucous troop of monkeys who followed our little trek through the wilds.  They did of course, keep a respectable and safe distance from the clumsy intruders, but their constant 'chatter' was a reassuring accompaniment as we trudged through to our destination.  


Wildlife aside, the jungles of Borneo have much to offer the inquisitive traveller.  Many of the tribes living on the myriad rivers upstream from Kuching, live in remarkable structures known as longhouses.  These are gigantic wooden structures on stilts, each built in a different style according to the tribe, where entire villages co-exist under one roof, with individual rooms leading off long communal verandahs. With the right introductions and the right guide to help you navigate through longhouse etiquette, it is possible to experience the wonderful hospitality of these warm people and stay the night. I am fortunate to have been invited to spend the night by a  welcoming and friendly Iban family  Most longhouses these days have been quite modernised with electric lighting, TV and even satellite...but the hospitality shown to me was that of the old-fashioned kind; unparalleled anywhere for its genuine warmth.  


As the green light of the jungled faded with the encroaching evening, my guide and hosts joined me on the wide verandah, placing down on the cane table between us, an amber bottle of uncertain origin filled with a cloudy liquid and a shot glass for each adult.  This I was later to discover, was  tuak, the local tipple.  It has a mild and not totally unpleasant taste but by early indications, is going to pack one impressive hangover!  What fun!

The urbane charm of Kuching

 I had few expectations when winging my way to the city of Kuching, the capital of Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo.  I had viewed it merely as just another small, provincial Asian city; a launching place for an 'intrepid' foray into the densely jungled interior of this infamous and mysterious island.  My views however,  soon proved to be erroneous and were sharply but delightfully jolted into the realisation that Kuching was anything but a run-of-the-mill, moderately sized Asian city.  Instead, I found a polished, refined and tolerant city with an urbane charm that would impress even the most jaded of travellers. Having recovered from the immediate dismay of being...wrong, I quickly rallied, deposited my bags in my 'atmospheric' lodgings and went to explore. Built largely on the south bank of the Sungai Sarawak, Kuching (meaning 'cat' in Malay) though large by Malaysian standards, is somewhat contained and compact, with most sites and attractions within an easy and tempting stroll of the city centre.  I was to find that many of Kuching's historic buildings have been tastefully and artistically  restored, including the many humble godowns or warehouses, that line the river and now house restaurants, curio shops and Chinese shop houses.  The south bank of the river is even rimmed by a peaceful promenade, where one can amble between the sites or hail a small boat or tambang to ferry you across the river. 


As dusk settles over this most attractive city of Southeast Asia, I have repaired to one of the more colourful godowns for this evening's dissipation. Nestled comfortably in rattan and silk upholstery, I have settled on an old standard, a Singapore Sling, that 'climate appropriate' mix of gin (premium naturally), cherry brandy, lemon juice and soda.  Not precisely a local concoction but certainly well in the region, I felt my selection had met with the approval of those around me.  A longer stay in this tempting city is definitely in order!

Jewels in the KL sky!

One can not live solely...and soulfully on fresh air and friends alone so it is with some trepidation and yet, with more than a modicum of excitement that I find myself "...on the road again...".  Replenished and refreshed after a wonderful time at 'home', I find myself once again thrust into the hurly burly of South East Asia...of Kuala Lumpur, or KL as it is known to those accustomed to traversing the globe.  Despite being now recognised as a thoroughly modern, prosperous and affluent city, one only has to stroll through the historic colonial district, or Chinatown with its quaint old shophouses or even the bustling market place of Little India to appreciate the past, colour and character that make up KL today.  As much as I love the old, the historic and the 'quirky dustiness' of any city (possibly in reference to my good self), it is the new, modern and sparkling that attracts me to KL these days. And nothing holds my awe more than the majestic Petronis Towers.  Rising like KL's glittering, arabesque crown and refracting like jewels in the sky, the towers are an arresting and compelling site.  

Not one to miss the thrill of being 'arrested' and 'compelled', I have retired to the Sky Bar of KL's Traders Hotel. A striking rooftop bar with amply and sumptuously cushioned nooks surrounding the hotel's swimming pool, one is comfortably presented with uninterrupted views of the towers and the city's preparations for the evening's activities.  What better way to enjoy a warm KL evening than with a view to rival the treasures of Aladdin and...a refreshingly appropriate Campari Cocktail.  While defined by a careful blend of Campari and a dash of Angostura Bitters, one must insist on the use of a premium vodka to complete this concoction...anything less will leave one with a bad taste in the mouth.  Chin chin! 

Friends...and other animals in Lorne!

Travelling as frequently as I do, it is easy to take for granted and indeed, fail to recognise, the simple pleasures of the company of good friends and the joys of a coastal week away.  I was thankfully reintroduced to some of the things that make me happy while travelling down the "Great Ocean Road" to the seaside hinterland of Lorne.  A mere 150 kilometers from the hustle and bustle of Melbourne, the journey to Lorne takes in some of the most spectacular coastal scenery anywhere in the world.  Nestled on the border of the Great Otway National Park, Lorne, though tediously lively in the festive season, can also offer  one the peace and quiet one needs to recover from the rigours of the pointy tree festival.  With that in mind, I resolved to take the time to smell the eucalypts, align myself with the horizon and appreciate that "...a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush".   In the company of close friends and other animals, I sink more heavily into my wicker chair on the verandah conveniently overlooking the Victorian coast, sigh deeply at the wonder of it all and...pop the cork on a Dal Zotto Pucino Prosecco NV from the King Valley region of Northern Victoria. Pale in colour, this youthful Prosecco has hints of cut pear and citrus blossom and a freshness that is perfectly enjoyed on a verandah by the sea side.  What  good fortune I have!