A night...and day on the tiles.

I survived the cellars and, might I say, it was like frolicking in a vat of mead except, thank goodness,  it was port. After some considerable and serious recovery,  and a great deal of reflection, it occurred that one can't go past a Good Friday without some sort of pilgrimage to a construction of God.  I have never seen such suffering and blood letting than I did in the churches of Porto. Amazing iconography...so dark, portentous and reminiscent of my old gothic friend Nick Cave, the old churches of Portugal are indeed amazing. The tiles that embrace each haven of worship tells a story of epic proportions that one can only marvel at the skills of the craftsmen that dedicated themselves to the construction of these glazed wonders. In benediction and supplication, the only suitable honour is the consumption of a sweet dram of Benedictine...that sumptuous liqueur made of herbs, roots and sugar with a base of Cognac.  These churches must be seen to be believed...and I feel blessed. 

Kept in the dark...

Life is not all beer and skittles, there is of course...port.  The Gaia waterfront of the Rio Douro is completely dominated by the many lodges and warehouses of the famous port companies, each beckoning to the many purveyors of the noble juice by spelling out their names in huge letters across the roofs.  Of course, one can always follow one's reddened nose into the dark cellars of choice to sample the odd tawny and a grand ruby.  My choice has turned out to be... to follow my nose to as many cellars as I can possibly squeeze into one afternoon and still remain upright!!! I have however, decided not to keep you in the dark and have lined up an absolutely ambrosial drop of Cockburn's Vintage Port 2000 to begin my descent into pleasure. It is dark, big, fruity and sweet and perfectly wonderful. 

A bridge almost too far...

Porto abounds with excitingly sloping boulevards and visually remarkable landmarks, all exciting to the senses, but by George, it does make for a bit of a puff to get around.  Few cities of the world are built on the edges of a ravine but when you find yourself thrust onto the edge of one of these cities, one just must investigate every cranny and nook to the best of one's abilities, succumbing to the temptation of exercise. So where better to launch oneself into the unknown..well slightly known......but on the southern bank of the Rio Douro where the production and consumption of port takes on bodily and biblical proportions. It seems a bridge too far but I do find the bridge that seems a tad too far, and cross to the other side...and quench the thirst... and might I say, any future temptation for exercise, with a delightful Agres Bohemia Reserva 1835. This is a refreshing auburn beer, and just the thing to cleanse the palate before going down to the ...cellars. 

Where I hang up my coat...

I don't often wonder at the glory of a hotel but I must say, after a pleasant evening on, at and in Porto drinking port oh! it is indeed a blessing to have somewhere to luxuriate and put ones feet up.  The perfect place to settle in for a few days and explore the many ante-chambers that line the staircase.  The Grande Hotel de Paris in Porto's city centre, has all the trimmings  of a tarts boudior and the comfort of an old pair of slippers and smoking jacket.  The hotel retains a great deal of its period furnishings and even has a splendid drawing room where an ample and nourishing breakfast is served.  It wears its age well and has a crumpled glory that makes one feel at home.  Glory truly abounds this evening and I have treated myself to a very special Graham's Vintage Port 1963, a superbly balanced blend of fruit, tannin and elegance. I can't say enough about this very special tipple so I will say no more. 

Oh! Port in Porto (Oporto)

Well, I must say I have had a wonderfully leisurely two day trip by slow donkey cart to arrive finally at...Porto.  It must be said and said over and over again that Porto is one of the most spectacular and scenic cities in the world! And of course...it is the home and namesake of one of the worlds most popular tipples... and one of my favourite libations...port.  
Much of riverside Porto, or the bairro of Ribeira, has been declared a UNESCO World heritage Site.  It really does have something to interest everyone.  Please enjoy as I relax in a wonderfully inspiring cafe on the waterfront of the Rio Douro and settle in to my first..no doubt the first of many...Sandeman Vintage Port 2007.  This particular example from one of Portugal's most famous cellars, is of an opaque purple color, almost black. The aroma is of ripe red and intense black fruit aromas. One can also detect hints of pepper and clove.  I am truly in heaven and don't plan on leaving any time soon. We have only just begun.